A Kingdom For This Curry

To make it short: You haven’t lived yet if you haven’t had a Fried Crab Curry at Somboon Seafood. A crab curry as luscious, a friend flew in regularly from Singapore only to eat that boo phad pong curry at Somboon’s Surawong branch. Satisfied, he left again. Only to return.

Soombon serves its legendary crab curry since 1969. It’s a Thai-Chinese style seafood place with meanwhile four branches, all with the atmosphere of a waiting hall. But you couldn’t care less about the atmosphere. The Fried Crab Curry can make you cry.

Order it deboned (nuea boo phad pong curry), without the hard shells of these crabs from Southern Thailand. You have to be Thai not to break the table trying to break open those shells. And you’ll be served an elysian, deeply orange, magically smooth curry – with the exact ingredients and recipe remaining a secret.

All the restaurant says: “Somboon uses a family recipe of cream, eggs and chilli oil to make the gravy that coats the chopped crab.”

Eggs and big chunks of crab meat are the basis of the curry – but don’t ask how they perfectionize a few simple ingredients into that signature dish.

They’re all addicts visiting Somboon. The curry is ordered by practically every table. Especially the Japanese, known for their appreciation of perfection, flock to Somboon. And order the curry.

You may be irritated by the solid amount of chilli oil the curry’s made of. If bothered, simply lift the plate on one end, put something underneath and let the oil flow slowly into a corner. Et voilà. But what a waste that would be. That oil’s some medicine.

Another no-brainer you’ll have to order: Steamed Prawns with Garlic and the Deep Fried Fish with Fish Sauce. It’s not that simple fish sauce Somboon’s using. It’s more of a sweetish, slightly sticky mixture, as if they’d add honey or sugarcane.

Rather experimental, but not less delicious, the Fried Prawns with Black Olives in a Hot Dish.

Oops, nearly forgot the Lobster Sashimi. Not your cheapest of meals. Served with egg noodles and a hot soup over a flame. The soup is reportedly cooked and simmered for as long as eight hours.

But do not spoil the freshness of the ultra fresh sweet lobster meat by cooking it. You are supposed to eat the transparent slices of lobster with Japanese soy sauce and wasabi the way you eat sashimi. However, if raw seafood is not to your taste you can have the lobster freshly cooked in boiling soup and eat it with noodles – the restaurant calls it Emperor-Style Noodle Lobster.

Go there. And if it’s only for that curry.

Let me know what you think of it.

Many tried to copy it. All failed – such as the fake Somboon Seafood at Suan Lum Night Bazaar.

And no credit cards accepted. Bring along cash.

Prices? Moderate.

Service is always unobtrusive and top at Somboon. They deserve a healthy tip.




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