Downtown & Depressed? It’s Temple Time @ Paragon

Pissed off? Agonizing over this and that? No way out? Then this place is for you: A temple in the midst of Bangkok. Flanked by bustling Paragon, Central World Plaza and Rama I Road. But as secluded as in a faraway solitude.

It’s a temple village rather, a sprawling secretive monastery. As discreet and real as you won’t find it in abandoned provinces. Hidden in the middle of Bangkok. A world of wild jungle, orange monk robes and a labyrinth of temples and shrines inviting you to relax, let go and recharge.

Wat Pathum Wanaram is the ultimate Bangkok contrast. A stone’s throw away you can shop yourself to death. Once you take the little path into the temple maze the silence and shadows of giant old trees will cool you down. You’ll feel like entering a lost world.

You don’t have to speak a word to anyone – whereas you’ll always find a nun or monk most willing talking to you. Or just stroll around. Relax in the grand temple hall or discover the old weathered Buddhas and shrines hidden in this primeval Bangkokian downtown forest.

I’m neither an atheist nor believer, but this place has its compelling powers and magic. A favorite time to pay the wat a visit is during Buddhist religious high days. People bring along food, offer alms, meditate, pray – and share. After the monks have eaten the big feast starts.

You haven’t seen Bangkok if you haven’t been at Wat Pathum Wanaram, also called the Forest Temple of Siam Square.

If you’re stuck, have to let go or simply want to clear up your mind:

It’s temple time.

Even the shops in front of the historic temple, meters away from Bangkok’s most glittering shopping complex Paragon, they’re different: Life goes on as tranquil and laid back as in world where time stands still.

And that’s not it: About 300 people visit the green shelter in the middle of city skyscrapers in Pathumwan district every day. For dharma practice and meditation. And the number is increasing due to the temple’s various activities.

As there’s nothing unusual about meditating in a temple surrounded by shopping malls and skyscrapers. As it’s a pureland in a busiest world.

Wat Pathum Wanaram temple has set aside nine rai of its 15 rai plot of land as a green area for people studying dharma at the Sala Phrarajasaddha Dharma Center. Surrounded by trees some one meter in diameter and over 100 years old.

The lush forest helps filter the air and provides natural protection from the pollution outside.

This temple was built in 1853 during the reign of King Mongkut and served as a royal retreat during the time of King Chulalongkorn.

In the early days, the temple was surrounded by rice fields and swamps filled with lotus plants. The king called the palace Wang Sa Pathum or Palace of the Lotus Pond. The district he named Pathumwan. Pathum means lotus in the local dialect.

Phra Pisanpatanatorn or Luangpor Thavorn Chittathavaro, assistant abbot of the temple and the director of the Dharma Center, says the forest plays as well an important part in Buddhist history:

“Lord Buddha was born, became enlightened and passed away in forest environment. I would say the forest is an important part of Buddhist temples for it helps create peace and tranquility.”

Around the temple it’s all heat and noise. Wat Pathum Wanaram is all calmness and peace. An anachronism of the rampant consumerism around, as The Nation suggested in 2005.

The old ghosts the people of Pathumwan once feared seem to have vanished.

But you may still see one of peacocks and swans that were wandering around the old Siam Intercontinental before this pearl of a hotel was torn down to make way for Siam Paragon.