May 13th, 2009

I personally only have distaste for Henry Miller. A former girlfriend, the love of my life, was once presented a Henry Miller book by her secret lover. That book seemed to have made up her mind. Soon after she vanished. Leaving much behind. But not the Henry Miller.
Maybe I should give Henry again a try. But why should I when there’s a homey alternative out here: Lawrence Osborne‘s Bangkok Days. But to be honest, I find no time to review this promising portrait of a city that absorbs “those who have lapsed into dilettantism,” as Osborne writes.
Others have done the work I’m pleased to list below. Most reviewers seem captivated by the sounds and smells of Bangkok Osborne wonderfully evokes. “Osborne’s writing conveys a genuine love for the city and an appreciation of its ethos of easygoing tolerance,” says the Library Journal:
This book should rightly have been called “Bangkok Nights,” for Osborne (The Naked Tourist) provides a raunchy account of the nightlife and bars and bargirls of Thailand’s capital. In particular, he delves into the lives of a motley band of aging, libertine Westerners (Farangs) living in his apartment complex and explores the city in their company. Their tragicomic lives are compelling, and Osborne provides some extraordinary anecdotes. For instance, when an illness takes the author to the Bumrungad Hospital, he finds that it is more like a five-star hotel than a hospital. Despite being confined, the author and a companion manage a visit to a girly bar with two IV drips in tow. What lifts this book beyond mere sleaziness is Osborne’s prose.
From Publishers Weekly:
Osborne recounts his time in the fabled city of recreational sex and Buddhism. As he encounters characters questing for sensation and knowledge, he muses on how easy it is for Westerners to remake themselves in the East – much as the 19th-century English schoolteacher Anna Leonowens did when she tutored the royal children of Siam and fashioned herself into a mythologized literary figure.
As he discovers in an encounter with a Catholic missionary, it is the ideal place to lose the burdensome grip of the “self.” In Osborne’s narrative, Bangkok serves as an existential crossroads for a cast of British, Australian and Spanish expatriates who are haphazardly searching for and running away from responsibilities; in the labyrinthine city, these tourists have established a playground for adult pleasure.
As their documentarian, Osborne is at once incisive and romantic. He creates a character-driven travelogue that reveals but does not exploit the salacious subtext of Bangkok nightlife. It is a journey flush with atmosphere but tempered with a subtext of lonely Western wonder.

First a synopsis:
A passionate, affectionate record of adventures and misadventures in the world’s hottest metropolis: Tourists come to Bangkok for many reasons – a sex change operation, a night with two prostitutes dressed as nuns, a stay in a luxury hotel. Lawrence Osborne comes for the cheap dentistry. Broke (but no longer in pain), he finds that he can live in Bangkok on a few dollars a day. And so the restless exile stays. Osborne’s is a visceral experience of Bangkok, whether he’s wandering the canals that fill the old city; dining at the No Hands Restaurant, where his waitress feeds him like a baby; or launching his own notably unsuccessful career as a gigolo. A guide without inhibitions, Osborne takes us to a feverish place where a strange blend of ancient Buddhist practice and new sexual mores has created a version of modernity only superficially indebted to the West. Bangkok Days is a love letter to the city that revived Osborne’s faith in adventure and the world.
Here’s New York’s Village Voice‘s take:
Lawrence Osbourne Persues Redeemable Vulgarity in Bangkok Days
‘If you let people do what they want, then you get what exists in Bangkok: sexual mayhem,” says Lawrence Osborne, with a roguish gleam in his eye. We’re discussing his newest book, Bangkok Days, which is subtitled A Sojourn in the Capital of Pleasure. Yet instead of providing a detailed chronicle of sexual profligacy, the book dares to suggest the relative innocence of Thai sex tourism: “Intentionally or otherwise,” Osborne writes, “the East/West encounter is nearly always redeemed by being slightly comical.”
Over a double espresso, Osborne mentions his respect for Michel Houellebecq, whose 2003 novel Platform – a misanthropic tale of sex and death in Thailand – was greeted with hisses from the American press. “Houellebecq’s book was an attack on the idea of sexual liberation,” he says in an elegant British accent. “The West boasts about being liberated, yet the premise of Western culture is that you stimulate sexual desire to the nth degree, then make it impossible to consummate.” It’s this frustration, in part, that accounts for the number of aging male farangs (i.e., Westerners) sipping gin and tonics on the balconies of Bangkok’s opulent hotels, waiting for nightfall.
Bangkok Days, due out in June, is Osborne’s sixth book. It arrives in the wake of 2006′s The Naked Tourist, a sensual romp through India and Southeast Asia fraught with medical mishaps and epiphanies on the nature of travel. A New York City resident for the past 17 years, Osborne first traveled to Bangkok in 1990. He returned frequently for the inexpensive health care, and on assignments for The New York Times Magazine, for whom he has written articles on psychiatry and medicine. He has since established himself as a kind of romantic anthropologist: following his characters into dissipation, then rising from the ooze and appraising them – and himself – with a lucid, journalistic eye.
Who are his characters? Certainly not the young hedonists of Alex Garland‘s The Beach. “The young are happy,” Osborne says, “and I’m not interested in that. I’m more interested in what happens when people hit this weird invisible wall and give up hope.” Hence the adorably lascivious old men that populate Bangkok Days. Dennis, a retired bank manager from Australia, spends his time painting watercolors and purchasing underpriced Viagra. Of sex with a young Thai woman (named, incidentally, Porntip), he confesses: “It’s pleasure, not happiness, but I am happy with that – if you see what I mean.” Farlo, a foul-mouthed, bullet-headed Scotsman, keeps an eco-lodge in a mine-riddled region of Cambodia, where he takes his two or three annual tourists deer hunting with ex-members of the Khmer Rouge.
Osborne uses these men, as W.G. Sebald used his own alienated wanderers, to explore the idea of loneliness and the disappearance of the past. Bangkok – home of the largest sex-change facility in the world, where shrines rot in the shadows of iPod billboards and the Beverly Hills Polo Club – is an ideal place for him to observe. What he finds startling is how happy – or, at least, content – his expatriates appear to be. Westerners move to Bangkok, he writes, not only for the “culture of complete physicality,” but “precisely because they can never understand it.” For lost souls, he implies, losing oneself in an arcane environment may be just as valuable as finding oneself.
Bangkok holds for Osborne the sort of mystical power that Greece held for Henry Miller, who, in The Colossus of Maroussi, celebrated the country’s “passion, contradictoriness, confusion, chaos.” Osborne works in the same lineage as Miller; he has the same man-in-the-street sensibility, interest in ugliness, and mad enthusiasm for life. But he’s more restrained than the author of Tropic of Cancer, content to leave elliptical the rowdier bacchanals he must have witnessed. The book loses none of its strength through these omissions – instead, they reveal the amount of respect Osborne holds for the “chaotic ease” of Bangkok, which has nourished, in one way or another, so many of his fellow exiles.
And here’s Forbes‘ review:
Makes a Hard Man Humble
Bangkok, the capital and most densely populated city in Thailand, draws close to 15 million visitors per year. Some seek the liberation of becoming lost among 8 million inhabitants. Others come in search of love and beauty. For a select few who wish to escape their past, Bangkok also promises an opportunity for rebirth, both psychological and physical.
It is simply inexpensive dentistry, though, that first brings Lawrence Osborne to Bangkok. Then, as an unassuming observer, he peels back the popular assumptions widely held about the city. In Bangkok Days: A Sojourn in the Capital of Pleasure, Osborne revels in the intersection of the sacred and the profane.
Osborne contrasts ancient Buddhist temples frequented by pious monks with hedonistic modern nightclubs and the men who entertain themselves there. To his credit, he avoids the expected stereotypes. For example, he illustrates the sensuality of the city through epicurean escapades. In the “quivering beginning of night,” a quest for exotic food drives Osborne to wander the streets. “I wanted strange foods,” Osborne tells the reader, “things that would break me open, take me to the further side of taboo.”
As for the 200,000 women working what Osborne calls “the twilight game,” they become a symbol of enviable anonymity rather than sex. Osborne notes their ability to blend into a society that barely notices them. He, on the other hand, physically looming above the Bangkok locals, stands out like “a genetic accident that couldn’t be reversed.”
But Bangkok is a place where even genetics can be challenged. Osborne is transfixed by kathoey, men who turn themselves into women. He explores the idea that sexual transformation is an extension of the Buddhist belief in reincarnation. Osborne fixates on an apparition-like vision of a kathoey releasing a catfish into the river. He draws a parallel to the farang who also seek rebirth and a new beginning in Bangkok.
Osborne traces the quest to re-create oneself back to Anna Leonowens, governess to Thai Monarch Rama IV at the second half of the 19th century. Anna is better known for inspiring the 1956 film The King and I, a tale of a monarch who himself undergoes a transformation of character. Osborne suggests that Anna is the first farang to “use Siam/Thailand as a place to reinvent herself.”
The foreigners Osborne befriends also wish to liberate themselves from a former life and start afresh. The “wonderfully sinister” McGinnis is a man without a past, whose true profession and background no one can quite confirm, and Dennis the Australian is a widower whose former married life is an implausible mystery. With only a vague understanding of each man’s past, these acquaintances focus only on the present life each has made for himself in Bangkok.
These characters also become a facility through which Osborne illustrates the seedier aspects of the city. It is this collection of shady acquaintances who draw Osborne out of his apartment and on sordid exploits through the city nightlife. But ironically, it is through descriptions of the time he spends in the company of friends, rather than alone, that Osborne most poignantly illustrates the theme of lonesomeness in this crowded Thai city.

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Great post, what a treasure trove you just opened, thanks D.
Where is the book available? Amazon says it hasn’t been released yet.
Yes val the book’s on preorder, should be out by the end of the month.
BangkokDan
Here’s an interview with the man himself:
http://www.worldhum.com/features/travel-interviews/interview-with-lawrence-osborne-bangkok-days-20090430/
BangkokDan
I spent the weekend reading this book. I wish I had a suitable superlative that would do this work justice. It certainly deserves to be read by every expat I know …
Talk to us Jaded!
BangkokDan
I am reluctant to get too into this, but as you asked so nicely I will proffer the following critical comment.
This book certainly bears comparison with Edmund White’s classic “The Flanneur.” What White did for Paris was initiate the reader into some of its less well known sources of sexual energy, but I didn’t find a similar energy illuminating Bangkok Days.
Osbourne has a beautiful prose style. The tone and cadence of the writing is quite exquisite although, ironically, his “voice” would also probably the focus of any criticism I might have. At times I found his prose a little too sweet or baroque for my particular taste but this is a comment reflecting in my opinion how close to perfection much of the writing is …
If, on occasion, it did feel a little uneven this was probably due to the demand of maintaining the same tone for the entire length of the text which seemed overly long. The last few chapters have an almost elegiac quality. As the book peters out towards a final almost wimpering coda a certain amount of the energy created earlier in the text is dissipated in a rather pointless fashion …
No doubt this is partly the conceit of the writer to create this atmosphere and a feeling of partial closure but there must have been other possible ways to finish it.
I should say that any criticisms that I have are predicated on my belief that this book is the best of its kind that I have read in many many years.
I love Lawrence Osborne books.
My language is Italian, anyway was worth a little effort reading it in English.
Thanks a lot Lawrence.
This book was just named the top summer read by New York Magazine.
http://nymag.com/arts/books/features/57867/
“Bangkok Days” was also named the top travel book of 2009 by the New York Times last weekend. Read it in Saigon …
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/06/books/review/Travel-t.html?_r=1&ref=books
Being a ten years veteran of Bangkok, I do not understand all the fuzz about this book: real facts are distorted and several points were not suitable to be mentioned by a serious writer (Eden Club for instance).
This book goes in the league of so many other works of farangs trying to explain what Thailand is without even getting closer to the truth, being so full in their Western stereotypes.
Just read the opening of the book, the way the Chao Phraya is described … this is not the real river, it’s an imaginary vision of a farang forcing his ways into a novel …