Thailand Beyond The Fringe

How far would you go to become Thai? We recently had a bitter-sweet take on those wannabe-Thais who become more Catholic than the Pope. Here’s a more scientific approach. Should we dare to stop being ourselves? Author Tim Rackett, a resident lecturer at Khon Kaen University, reviews Robert Cooper’s “Thailand Beyond the Fringe,” a book written for the long haul expat by an Englishman who has lived most of his life in Asia and speaks Thai, Lao, French, Malay and Indonesian. Here we go:

Many from the West are fleeing the discontents of failed personal relationships and neo-liberal dreams to pursue happiness and new freedoms, but what awaits such life style “refugees” when they abide in Thailand? A place pictured in the global imaginary as an exotic comfort zone offering consumable delights of: ancient civilization, cuisine, abundant beautiful pliant bodies, planet saving Buddhist wisdom, love peace and harmony.

Fantasy aside, what will people encounter in their relations with Thais? And should they unthinkingly embrace Thai ways, culture – both products of power and politics – as if the nonsense about not telling the truth promoted by guide books should be followed. This author is distressed to see people abroad willingly leave common sense and reason behind and foolishly believe Thai lies and illusions when they do not believe their equivalents at home.

Review by Tim Rackett, a Sociologist in Thailand

Thailand Beyond the Fringe (hereinafter “TBF”) explores everyday scenarios and predicaments of cross-cultural encounters in Thailand. Robert Cooper adroitly explicates enigmas and taboos whilst looking awry at ex-pat reactions to Thai ways; especially those who risk losing their hearts and minds to the allure of new possibilities and as the ground of the familiar crumbles away beneath their feet. “TBF” is a guide to a presentational society whose main priority seems to be keeping up appearances, saving face at any cost, and the ambivalences of a culture and people imagined by others, and itself, through the tropes of fantasy and utopia.

With great verve, and wicked wit Cooper raises the question of whether relationships and friendships with Thais can, or should, live up to ex-pat expectations and fantasies in their economic, erotic and ethical quests for a better life? Cooper challenges all too common cynical, sexist and racist ex-pat views of male and female Thais as: “ultimate sexotic pleasure machines devoid of common sense and logic and are the nicest people you can buy” and shows that Thai people are far from being amoral, inscrutable or irrational, if the effort is made to learn their styles of reasoning. In other words, ex-pats have to re-calibrate their emotional, moral and intellectual frames of reference to survive and thrive when they negotiate different Thai notions of love, intimacy, emotional communication, other cultural values priorities and loyalties.

Cooper addresses incurable cultural romantics terminally intoxicated with all things Thai and those infuriated by the gaps between saying and doing, officially sanctioned appearances and reality. Pictures of Thais, on the one hand, calm, shy, polite, smiling and proud and, on the other, oscillating between being: spiritual and materialist, mindful and mindless, care free and careless, compassionate and callous, selfless and selfish, caring and indifferent; equally accepting and capable of contemplation and coups, meditation and massacres. No wonder global voyagers might be dazed and confused living on planet Siam! Globalized Thai “tourist culture” seems to say to strangers: Yes, you may! Be free and live your fantasies! And at the same time “No, you cannot.”

A paradox in which there seems to be both too much control and too little regulation in Thai relations. Thai power tend to seduce others into the undeniable enchanting beauty of its myths, illusions and Thais incurable incredulity at wondrous signs they are made to believe: only affirming the positive and believing that everything is for the karmic best in the best of all possible worlds. In the Thai culture of disavowal farang and Thai cannot say that the Emperor has no clothes! Undoubtedly, face, fakes and fun are the aesthetic currency of the “realm.”

Thais tend to be guided by magic, superstition and supernatural forces. Such a “community of fatalism” mitigates accepting personal and moral responsibility – you are only guilty, and wrong when, and if, caught! Aesthetics take precedence over ethics, manners over morals: politeness and the illusion of harmony rule and are imposed by might if necessary.

Thus, if you think that anything goes in Thailand you would be right, up to a certain point. That is, depending on who is doing it, when, where, to whom, in public or private, and in whose beholding eyes! As Thais know, only too well, the powerful and wealthy, can transgress with impunity, in spite of the myriad prohibitions of law and Buddhism, resulting in a kind of anarchy in slow motion seen in the pursuit of wealth and status by any means necessary; thrill seeking rather than enlightenment; high risk taking and living with reckless joyful abandon.

Given the multiple ambiguities of Thai ways Cooper suggests that as a coping strategy to ex-pats in for the long haul in Thailand should abandon some of their “Western” “excess baggage”: thoughts, goals, interpretations all of which “serve no useful function and encumber a smooth path to integration (cover blurb).” This seems sage advice, as the ability to compromise and conciliate are essential in cross-cultural encounters, however it raises an important issue, for some a dilemma, of when in Rome do as the Romans?

If, it means embracing cultural and ethical relativism it is highly problematic: integrate qua assimilate into or adjust to what? It does not allow questioning of Thai cultures and traditions and which aspects are ethical assets or, liabilities. When in Thailand ex-pats from all nations can be placed under, or, above Thai’s not typically alongside as equal global citizens! When Cooper elaborates forms of Thai placing and movement on status hierarchies: “arse licking” he is really describing the “soft power” of Thai control through culture which zeros in all to secure their obedience and acquiescence to local forms of submission and domination.

Cooper’s relativism, albeit argued for on pragmatic grounds, “when in Thailand do as the Thais” can support tolerating the intolerable and relinquishing any expectation of cosmopolitan norms of hospitality and planetary humanism: mutual dialogue, fairness, respect and honesty. Why should long term “guests” integrate in a conformist way. Foreigners are very well disposed to learn Thai ways and arts of living to the point of “going native” attempting to become Thai. At the other extreme are those who have a mediated contact and cash nexus relations with Thai people and culture by living an encapsulated Western elite life style.

However, as we know, from Anthropology 101 all gifts, including warm Thai hospitality to visitors, are demands – for reciprocity. But what exactly do Thais want from long term “guests”? Their: recognition, love and/or money, to do it the Thai way, or, the highway? Ex-pats often are given the stark choice, but not surprising for a “soft authoritarian” society, love our ways, or leave!

Obey, submit and conform. Politics, power and history are the stuff cultures are made from as effects and are not really very funny, especially the selective, and occasional, application of the rule of law, inequalities, corruption as a way of life and multiple human wrongs in multi-racist Thailand. It is the latter, having lived and worked over a decade in Thailand, which has sadly created in me an unexpected sympathy with Dr. Joseph Goebbels’ infamous remark: “When I hear culture I reach for my gun!”

As the great French anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss, astutely observed: radicals in their own society are often conservatives in other cultures. “TBF” presents an official ruling conservative version of Thai Culture and Tradition invented by Bangkok elite and imposed through the modern nation-state upon the multitude of diverse local identities, forms of life, cultures and peoples. What is the ultimate conclusion of Cooper’s book? Foreigners should become Thai in order to play the survival game and to be themselves! In spite of the fact they are excluded by nationalist racism?

However this begs the question of exactly how open are Thais and ex-pats to each others strange ways? Is there a kind of mutual fantasy of the comfort of strangers operating between Thais and Westerners? For far too long Westerners have succumbed to a form of relativist blackmail – it’s their country; I have no right to judge, criticize, or change, their ways- to embrace and collude with the oppression and prejudice of Thai ways and traditions without demanding equal dignity and respect, empathy.

Would we join in with Nazi’s Female Genital Mutilation infanticide!! Farangs who support right wing politics in the name of culture and tradition – we love our Father who know best – have serious problems with being compassionate humans who care . We should dare to cease being ourselves, step outside stereotypes and our skins. As Buddhists say no I me, mine so lets share and mingle …

Thailand Beyond the Fringe by Robert Cooper, Publisher Marshall Cavendish. The second edition is about to be published.

Reviewer Tim Rackett is a inter-cultural-zone explorer. He has been living and working in Thailand for 13 years teaching philosophy and researching Thai Buddhism, power politics and globalization. At present he teaches International Affairs at KKUIC.

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Comments

19 Responses to “Thailand Beyond The Fringe”

Jarrett on July 29th, 2009 3.59 pm

This sounds a lot like an opinion piece disguised as a book review. A confusing opinion piece, to boot.

The writer here is walking a pretty precarious tightrope by explaining why so many expatriate views of Thai culture are malformed, and then supplanting all those romantic suppositions with his own, opposing set of mass generalizations.

“However, as we know, from Anthropology 101 all gifts, including warm Thai hospitality to visitors, are demands – for reciprocity.”

Really? News to me.
bosunj on July 30th, 2009 1.03 am

It’s heartwarming to see that my comments have provoked such angst and contemplation.

One doesn’t need to become Thai. I never suggested this. I did and do suggest that if you are deeply troubled by what goes on here that you book a flight back to wherever it was you came from. Simple.

I did and do suggest that those who are so troubled by what goes on in the Kingdom yet won’t leave not make it impossible for those of us who do like it here to stay by angering Thais with their criticisms.

As for those criticisms, one need not point out that Westerners have done a bang up job of managing their countries, haven’t they? If it’s so great back there why is one here?

If one wants to change the world one should start with one’s self I believe the saying goes.
Jarrett on July 30th, 2009 12.10 pm

No angst provoked. Just wonder, at how someone who bills themselves as an instructor and “inter-cultural-zone explorer” could paint with such a broad and indelicate brush.

It’s worth considering that individuals, much like cultures, are quite different from one another.
bosunj on July 30th, 2009 1.14 pm

Relax Jarrett, the angst and contemplation I referred to weren’t presumed to be yours.
BangkokDan on July 30th, 2009 1.26 pm

Generalization is certainly a valid tool.

On the other hand we have the ghettoization of the foreign community not really being allowed to integrate, or not?

Not letting foreigners too near is a defensive mechanism developed and perfected over the decades. Out of an inferiority complex, some would say.

I can live with that, no problem, but how often is the foreign community pointed at as a bad example? As a destructive influence?

Integrating, to me, means not being a punching bag any longer.

Participation of foreigners is a given in many countries around the globe. Asia is different. We have to live with that.

BangkokDan
Jarrett on July 30th, 2009 3.06 pm

“Participation of foreigners is a given in many countries around the globe. Asia is different.”

That’s an idea that’s worth exploring. Does anyone have any idea why?

Tim – thanks for your post. While I disagree with you in many ways you raise some interesting questions.
Patrick on July 30th, 2009 8.02 pm

It seems Westerners who post on the Web are awfully sensitive about how they’re perceived in Thailand. (And yet this issue rarely comes up in conversation with my friends.)

The two most pathetic types of farangs here are:

1. The “more Thai than Thai” culture groupies who will excuse anything by pointing to “culture.” Just because you come to Thailand doesn’t mean you have to ditch your critical thinking.

2. The “don’t call me farang” types who feel forever victimized by Thais and feel they’re constantly being targeted for scams. They usually never learn a word of Thai – or learn 20 words and think they’re fluent. My favorite are the guys who marry bar girls … and then complain that “all Thai women” are only after money. Which is like going to Vegas, marrying an escort … and complaining all American women are only after your money.

Both these types are inherently insecure people – and I think being in a country full of people who look/talk/think differently brings out the worst of their insecurities.
stefan on July 31st, 2009 4.50 am

Jarrett: Asia is different. That’s an idea that’s worth exploring.

I look forward to any new exploration not based on readers levels of self-confidence.

We love the “experts on pathos” spouting on, demanding to know why would people talking differently in your host country make visitors feel insecure? Admittedly Thailand attracts its fair share of basket cases, the divide between those on both extremes of the confidence scale is pronounced, both extremists are here. Just because some people are more or less confident about themselves than others doesn’t a wanker make them. The parameters for measuring transplanted people might benefit from less generalizations and cliches. Welcome that new branch of investigation Jarret.
Jarrett on July 31st, 2009 11.01 am

Stefan: I’m vividly aware of that fact. I do think that because Asia doesn’t quite operate the way some people would like it to, that forces them to make some fairly ugly judgments. That’s really the only point I’m trying to make – that generalization as a means of understanding might be useful, but it’s also dubious.

Thai culture, like any culture for that matter, is a pretty nebulous thing. So are the various sorts of farang relationships and experiences that are woven into that fabric.

Patrick: Agreed. Thinking critically is important anywhere. But thinking only critically places you at risk, and gets in the way of actual exchange. There do seem to be a lot of people here that are divided into either camp.
bosunj on July 31st, 2009 12.05 pm

Being divided into camps. Therein lies the crux of the farang’s inability to understand Asia in general and Thailand in particular.

Farang are nurtured by their corporate press to believe that Pepsi is better than Coke or vice versa, the Red Sox are better than the Yankees or vice versa all the way down the line even to the high school level.

The Western paradigm is that for me to win you must lose.

Westerners are trained to believe what I have is better than what you have. My faction is better than your faction. Or, deeper down – my faction is right therefore it must be good so that means your faction is wrong therefore it must be bad and as a member of that faction you must be bad. To wit: FOX News.

Kill or imprison the bad guy. That has worked so well for the West hasn’t it?

In that context is it difficult to understand why many Asians and Thais don’t want to hear about how you do things back where you come from?

In Houston Texas in the 80s there were bumper stickers on many pickup trucks that expressed a similar sentiment: “We don’t care how you used to do things up north”.

Criticizing Asians and Thais for not wanting to hear or rejecting Western values is mildly racist at its core. That criticism presumes that Westerners are better, smarter and more clever.
MongerSEA on August 1st, 2009 10.48 am

Patrick’s comments above are very astute and he neatly cleaves the majority of the expat community into two camps: the KJD (Knee-Jerk Defenders) and the CTB (Chronic Thai Bashers). And indeed both of those groups are horribly insecure as a rule and generally comprised of some not very bright people who never really grew up. One of their hallmarks is that they usually failed in their own culture so it’s no real shock that they fail again in Thailand …

As to bosunj’s remarks, it is probably enough to respond to his comment that “[the] criticism presumes that Westerners are better, smarter and more clever” with a simple invitation to review the empirical evidence. Thailand and many other nations define themselves as developing; they clearly consider that they’ve got a lot of modernization to do. And what is the context for those efforts? Simply, to meet the standards set by the West and by Westerners.

There is a huge demand in the underdeveloped world for those social, economic and cultural things of which the West was the pioneer, from noble notions of democracy and it’s underpinning egalitarianism right down to the more crass consumerism of “baseball, hot dogs, apple pie and Chevrolet.” There is no corresponding demand in the West for corrupt oligarchies, nor for takraw, somtam or donkey carts.

All the evidence clearly indicates that in the arc of modern history that the West has won, and has done so by virtue of a superior system of values and practices. No amount of bleating liberal theory will erase this simple fact.
bosunj on August 1st, 2009 3.19 pm

There is a huge demand in the underdeveloped world for those social, economic and cultural things of which the West was the pioneer, from noble notions of democracy and it’s underpinning egalitarianism.

Western Social Values: I got mine eff you!

Western Economic Values: I got mine eff you!

Western Cultural Values: Mine’s better than yours!

Western Egalitarianism: Unions suck! Socialism sucks! Liberals suck!

There is no corresponding demand in the West for corrupt oligarchies.

Indeed, that demand has already been met. To wit: The Oligarchy that it is clearly evident America has become.

All the evidence clearly indicates that in the arc of modern history that the West has won.

Rather all evidence is clearly revealing itself daily that the exact opposite is true. The West has failed miserably to fulfill the vaunted ideas enumerated in your comment. Moreover, it has succeeded in fulfilling the basest consumerist fantasies. Much to be proud of there.

… and has done so by virtue of a superior system of values and practices.

There you go with those superior, er, Western, er, egalitarian virtues!

No amount of bleating liberal theory will erase this simple fact.

Yet more egalitarian “values.”
Critical on August 1st, 2009 11.47 pm

bosunj (who is he – the author?) it’s not clear) really hates Westerners. Each of his posts gets more and more anti-Western. It’s hard to take his opinions seriously when he’s got such a chip.
bosunj on August 2nd, 2009 12.19 am

No, I’m not the author. I’m not anti-Westerner. I am anti-I’m better smarter than Asians or Thais because I’m a Westerner. I am anti-farang who’s unhappy here and won’t go home or at least keep one’s trap shut about how much one hates what one sees here.

I’m a Westerner myself. You’d know that had you taken the time to click on my linked user name rather than jerking one’s knee.

If you’re distressed by my rebuttal to MongerSEA but not to his comments then perhaps you’ll be unlikely to consider a different opinion at all.

Perhaps Dan might integrate a bio page?
Mithran on August 4th, 2009 11.45 am

I sometimes wish the “don’t call me farang” farangs had some perception of what their own countries are like for foreigners. Here’s a hypothetical. Say for some reason while living in BKK you decide to walk to a friend’s house, but then find you have to go the long way round because, “We don’t want any Pakis down our street.” Anyone had that happen to them here? No, didn’t think so. I had enough of it growing up in London.

MongerSEA: Yes, there’s a huge demand for democracy in the underdeveloped world. It’s just a pity there’s not an equal demand for it in the West. Hussein, Pinochet, Mobutu … kept in power by who? Democracy’s all very well when it means open markets but God help the third world when it doesn’t.
bosunj on August 4th, 2009 1.14 pm

Democracy’s all very well when it means open markets …

Democracy = open markets?

Lack of open markets means what exactly to the so called third world vis-à-vis democracy?
Mithran on August 4th, 2009 3.07 pm

bosunj, I meant the West choses to interpret democracy as open markets. Clearly it’s nothing of the sort.
chdarat on August 4th, 2009 5.53 pm

bosunj, et al

Enjoy reading this especially the comments.

It feels good to read the discussion as sometimes I’m totally overwhelmed by some farangs attitudes!

At the risk being accused of being anti westerners, I like to say this. Stop judging us by your standards, please! Even if your standards are high, they derived from your cultural and historical needs and not ours.

We, here in Thailand, have been rescued by westerners playing brave knights so many times that some of us only wait to be rescued by you. Making it hard for us to gain perspective and we are losing sight of makes us who we are!

Yes Thailand is a developing country and this does not mean develop to be like the west.

Look at us now; success means having your lifestyle at a very high cost!

We are aping you in material status. To be equal means a permit to cheat, lie and step on people, to get there.

That will not help us, correction, has never helped us! Instead it leaves us feeling shallow and we will always be walking behind you instead of alongside you.

If you want to understand then why not put yourself in our shoes instead of making us wear yours and feel how uncomfortable they are right now! We do not wear the same size! They will never fit!
Patrick on August 5th, 2009 12.13 pm

Mithran: Well put. After all, there are fleets of taxis here with massive “I (heart) Farang” stickers on the back window. I have yet to see any “I (heart) Kaek” stickers. South Asians, a distinctly affluent and long-established class here in Thailand, are not as admired (or fetishized) the way farangs are.

chdarat: Many of us feel you, brother. Try not to measure farangs’ opinions from the message boards! Reasonable people don’t judge a country only by its GDP and its shopping malls. We like Thailand’s mix of beauty, affordability, kindness, style and, for the lucky among us, career opportunity. If it was all about “development,” I’d move to Singapore … and, speaking personally, I’d rather eat glass.

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