The Other Klong Tour

Yes yes, seen that, done that. A Bangkok klong tour departing from Central Pier, also called Sathorn Pier at Saphan Taksin, bringing you to Thonburi. The boatsmen are mostly unfriendliness in persona and for the prices they charge you could nearly buy a boat. This is the farang land we all try to avoid.

Klongs though remain at the very heart of Bangkok life itself. Temperatures along klongs will always be fresher and life is – apart from the unspeakably loud boat engines – most peaceful and relaxed. The Bangkok of back then still exists, you just have to find it. We were lucky enough to discover even more:

The other day, after systematically shunning tourist attractions in Bangkok for years, our whole clan took a klong tour under the masterful guidance of Hans M. Hensel, German national and Bangkok resident since 26 years. And author of the unique guide book “Bangkok von innen” – Bangkok from the inside, a truly different insider’s travel guide.

Along came Dutch historian and Thailand adept B. J. Terwiel. I doubt there are many Thais who know more about Thai history, society and current Thailand than professor Baas Terwiel. The only problem with him: If he shares his deep insights with Thais they mostly get upset. They’re not used to be told by a foreigner what their country and culture are all about.

Our klong tour brings us to Nonthaburi, Klong Om and Bang Yai. Take the public speed boat from Central pier to Nonthaburi. It’s a 70 minutes ride. Arriving at Nonthaburi talk to the boatmen and charter a long tail boat. We paid 1,600 baht for a big one and the two-hours ride.

You’ll enter Klong Om, reach Bang Yai and continue via Klong Bangkok Noi to Bang Kruai back to Nonthaburi. Have a break or two along the way. And don’t go back without having stopped at Wat Chaloem at the very end. That has to be arranged with the boatsman before departing.

Adjacent to Wat Chaloem have a stroll through magnificent Suan Kanchanapisek, Bangkok’s probably most beautiful public park with “Bangkok’s most beautiful public toilets,” as Hans put it.

That’s it already. You’ll have a perfect day. A last tip though: If you depart Sathorn Pier around noon you’ll return in the evening. Take the last boat at 6.40 pm you’ll enjoy Grand Palace, Wat Arun and all the other beauties along the river in full illumination.

Tourists pay well over a thousand baht for the sight. You get it for 13 baht a one-way ticket. A nice goody to conclude a beautiful afternoon. Before you’re heading to your favorite eatery, as it will be high time for some decent food and beer.

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Comments

6 Responses to “The Other Klong Tour”

Andy on February 9th, 2009 4:32 pm

Thanks for the nice local trip tip.

Is the German guide available for all locals?

Would be nice to do with some friends coming soon.

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Andy on February 9th, 2009 4:46 pm

Just reading in The Nation:

City administration to open new floating market in Min Buri in three months

The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration will open a new floating market on the Saensaeb Canal in Min Buri in three months, a deputy BMA governor said Monday.

Thaya Teepsuwan said the BMA would spend about Bt5 million to restore an old pier at a deserted mill and improve the landscape nearby and turn the area into the new Min Buri floating market.

The works would be done in three months and the BMA will promote the new tourist spot, she said.

The BMA would spend two more months, trying to improve the water quality in the area.

Eight district offices of Min Buri, Nong Chok, Khan Nayao, Bang Kapi, Bueng Kum, Saphan Sung, Klong Samwa, and Lat Krabang would cooperate in operating the new floating market.

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stefan on February 10th, 2009 2:29 am

Alternative to the noisy and expensive longtails are the river “taxi” boats. They are small sampans, a bit slower, much quieter and eco friendly and far more manouverable than the top heavy longtail monsters. Typically they can seat up to twelve passengers, I have recently rented them for 500-600 baht per hour and have enjoyed a superior klong and river experience.

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Andy on February 10th, 2009 9:21 am

Hi Stefan,

Actually you are right, the long tail monsters are similar to those tuk-tuk noise polluters. I wish the Thai government would make those two a bit more quiet.

Which pier did you get them?

Can you send a photo to BKKDan, so we can upload here and can enjoy a more quiet ride.

Taking the standard local yellow line taxi boat at Saphan Thaksin (get there by Skytrain) around 6 pm and get off 30-40 minutes later at Phra Athit Pier is also a amazing experience. Sunset by the river, just did that last week. Was awesome with a perfect red sky and plenty of good photo opportunities.

Getting off at Phra Athit Pier will bring you to nearby Khao San Road. Either enjoy some local small dinner restaurant @ Phra Athit Road (just next to the pier) or head to nearby Khao San & surrounding and enjoy the car-free night zone there. Nice way to spend one evening while in Bangkok.

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Athit on February 23rd, 2009 12:23 am

Andy,

as for these notoriously incompetent Bangkok city planners trying to create an “official” Minburi Floating Market, this seems like a horrible idea to me. I am living since about 20 years near that area and it is one of my favourite hangouts in Bangkok. Here it is still possible to show my guests and friends from overseas the “last sigh” of what how beautiful the Khlongs around the City once used to be.

The khlongs around old Mueang Min (Minburi) are now still completely untouched by tourists.

Especially Khlong Saensaep after the watergate at Wat Bang Phen which keeps the dirty water from Bangkapi out, Khlong Sam Wa, on which there is still a public boat line from Talat Min to Mooban Runkit View, and especially Khlong Song Ton Nun, on which you can do one of the most beautiful boat trips in Bangkok altogether.

I just talked to a leading members of the Siam Society who has organized many study boat tours for his members all around Bangkok. He admitted that it was unheard even to him that there is still regular public boat traffic in Minburi and that it is still possible, for instance, to go by boat from one of the many piers in Minburi to the watergate right next to Wat Lat Krabang in Hua Takhe (near Suwannaphum Airport) and even directly to the pier of famous Wat Lanbun in Prawet District on Khlong Onnut. (And from there, you almost can go every half an hour by regular boat for just 10 Baht in 25 Minutes all the way down on Khlong Phra Khanong to Phra Khanong Pier on Sukhumvit Road…)

This great trip is even possible right from the back side of Ruamruedee International School in Minburi but I doubt that the Hi So teachers are teaching their Hi So pupils something like this in “Local History and Topography”…

I can just advice anyone who wants to see all these beautiful khlongs – including the old mill in Minburi (the mill is next to Nawamin Hospital and Chana Hotel in “downtown” Min), to go there AS QUICK AS POSSIBLE, before these 5 million Baht are used to destroy another beautiful and still amazingly clean Mid So Bangkok environment and create further tourist traps just like along Khlong Mon or in Taling Ngam.

If you can read German, you find something about the Minburi Khlong Tours here: http://forum.thailandtip.de/index.php?topic=568.0

No, sorry, the German Guide (“Bangkok von innen”) is not yet available for all locals.

Not yet…

Kind regards
Athit
(Hans Michael Hensel)

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Near Maximum: How To Beat The Heat on April 24th, 2009 3:04 pm

[...] usual. Hydrate, don’t walk, visit the malls, cruise on the Chao Phraya – why not a refreshing klong tour -, and shower, shower, [...]

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